homemade-crab-cakeI’ve learned to make hundreds of dishes over the years. Very few of them consistently elicit the reaction that the family Maryland crabcake recipe provokes. The recipe, passed down from my grandmother to my mother to me, focuses on the most important — and precious — ingredient: the crab. Done right, this is a dish I’d be proud to serve to a president, Pope or parent on a special day.

Acquire one pound of crabmeat, of the best quality and freshness you can afford, & a box of Saltines.

Crush one sleeve (~32 crackers) into the consistency of corn meal. (You may also substitute Stoned Wheat Thins.) Test different ratios of cracker/crab. The more of the latter, the better!

Combine crab & crushed crackers. Fold in 2-3 large dollops of mayonnaise using a spatula. Again, amount is up to cook. For me, dollop = 2 tablespoons.

If desired, add a 1-2 teaspoons of Old Bay seasoning, to taste.

Divide into 4 portions and form into cakes. Chill.

Heat large cast iron pan. Add enough cooking oil to coat bottom. (Key: choose oil with high flash point (canola, safflower, grapeseed, not olive oil). Add cakes. After 2 minutes on high heat, add 1 tablespoon of butter to pan. Flip when bottom of cakes is golden brown. When other side is golden, turn heat to minimum & cover to heat through.

Remove and place on draining rack. Serve with aioli, fruit salsa or “plain” with a squeeze of lemon.


Last summer, a friend asked for my recipe for blueberry pie. Technically, it’s my mother’s recipe. Here’s how I make it:


2 1/2 cups of flour
1 stick of butter (8 tablespoons)
4 oz of neufchâtel/cream cheese
1/4 cup cold water

1 quart of wild blueberries (or more, depending on pie dish depth)
4 tablespoons of Minute tapioca
1 1/4 cup of sugar
1 tablespoon of cinnamon
1 ounces of milk


Combine berries with 1 cup of sugar and tapioca in a bowl at least half an hour before baking, preferably 2 hours or so. Set aside.

Preheat over to 425 degree F.

Sift flour into large mixing bowl. Cut butter and neufchâtel into flour in small pieces. Pinch pieces of shortening between fingers until no globs remain. Add cold water, mix until dough comes together but no longer. Split into 2 balls, chill in fridge for 4 hours. (Possible to use immediately if needed but try to plan ahead!)

Dust counter top or big cutting board and a rolling pin with flour. (If you have access to a ceramic rolling pin, chill it prior to baking.) Roll out first ball of dough until it’s 1 inch wider than pie plate diameter on all sides. Fold into half and then once again to transfer into plate, then unfold after moving it over. Press closed any cracks.

Add filling. Roll out the other ball of dough, this time making an oval (for lattice) or circle for closed pie. Slice into 1/2″ strips. Weave into lattice over the pie filling. (If pie top is one piece, make sure to cut 8 1″ slit into it to allow steam to escape.) Press the top and bottom crust together with two fingers to form a wave.

Brush the top of the piece with milk. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar.

Put pie into over in the middle rack, preferably with a cookie sheet below it to catch any overflow. (If you have a crust protector, put it over the edges.)

Bake for 15 minutes at 425, then reduce heat to 350 degrees F. Bake for 45 minutes. Check to see if blueberries are bubbling. If not, check back periodically every 10 minutes. If crust is browning too fast, reduce heat further to 325.

Let cool for at least a few minutes — filling will be boiling hot and will gel as it cools.

Goes exceptionally well with cold milk, tea or a la mode.

Valentine's Day dinner: seared sea scallops, fresh lemon... on Twitpic

Seared sea scallops, fresh lemon pepper fettucine, roasted red pepper, shitake, zucchini.

Lemon chicken schnitzel. Perfect for a chilly November dinner. Not a bad pairing with a good Riesling, either. Tangy capers, citrus and sweet wine. Yum.

We’ll be back to Central.

Proper Maryland crabdip

In our family, Maryland Thanksgiving means crab dip is the prime attraction until the bird is done.

Cream cheese, shallots, sour cream, sherry, white pepper, 2 pounds of backfin lump.

Bake for 30 minutes at 350. Keep warm.


Making the classic family giblet gravy is a decades-old practice in my clan, from browning a proper roux to sautéeing wild mushrooms to separating turkey droppings and adding stock and flour.

In recent years, we’ve been trying gluten-free flours. Some Thanksgiving traditions are well worth preserving and evolving, as needed.

Last year, when I visited Sebastapol, Californina, I stumbled upon a terrific restaurant, the Himalayan Tandoori & Curry House.

I enjoyed a delicious pumpkin chicken masala, with organic pumpkin from a nearby farm. Rather good, with garlic cilantro naan and an IPA. Great service, fine ambiance.